Rayu substitute
Homemade sesame chilli oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil plus 1 tablespoon neutral oil plus ½ to 1 teaspoon ichimi togarashi or cayenne makes about 2 tablespoons
The genuine article from three pantry items, and better than most bottles.
Other rayu substitutes
Ranked, with the exact amount to use
Substitutes for Rayu with ratios
2Chinese or Sichuan chilli oil
Different tasteWhat changes
- Best for
- ramen and noodle soups, stir-fries and mapo tofu, dumplings when you want them hotter, cooked dishes rather than delicate dipping sauces
Chinese chilli oil is generally hotter, redder and built on neutral oil with a heavy load of chilli and often star anise, cassia or Sichuan pepper. If it contains Sichuan peppercorn it will bring a tingling numbness that has no place in a Japanese dipping sauce and that most people notice immediately. It also usually lacks the pronounced toasted sesame perfume that defines rayu, so add a few drops of toasted sesame oil alongside it. Diluting with plain oil fixes the heat but not the aroma.
3Toasted sesame oil plus chilli flakes
Close matchWhat changes
- Best for
- gyoza and dumpling dipping sauce, finishing ramen, cold tofu and salads, rice bowls
Most of what rayu contributes to a dipping sauce is nutty sesame aroma with a suggestion of heat behind it, and this delivers exactly that. The difference is that undiluted toasted sesame oil is stronger and slightly heavier than rayu, which is cut with neutral oil, so use a touch less than the recipe calls for or the sauce will taste dominated by sesame. The chilli flakes will not infuse instantly, so the heat sits in the flakes rather than in the oil, giving occasional sharp bites rather than an even warmth.
4Chilli garlic sauce or sriracha plus sesame oil
Taste and texture differWhat changes
- Best for
- gyoza dipping sauce mixed with soy and vinegar, noodle dressings, marinades
These are water-based pastes rather than oils, so they will not float in a glossy layer on soup or coat noodles the way rayu does, and sriracha brings sugar and a strong garlic note that reads Thai rather than Japanese. In a soy-and-vinegar dipping sauce where everything gets stirred together, the difference is minor and the result is perfectly good. Floated on a bowl of ramen it looks and behaves wrong, going cloudy and sinking instead of pooling on the surface.
5Ichimi or shichimi togarashi with plain oil
Different textureWhat changes
- Best for
- ramen and udon, rice bowls and donburi, yakitori and grilled dishes, when you want heat without adding fat
Ichimi togarashi is straight ground Japanese chilli and is exactly the pepper rayu is usually made from, so the heat character matches well. Shichimi is a seven-spice blend with sesame, nori, orange peel and sansho, which is more complex and slightly citrusy and can be lovely, though the sansho adds a faint tingle. Sprinkled dry you get the heat and none of the richness or gloss. With sesame oil added you have essentially made rayu.
6Taberu rayu (chunky chilli oil with crisp garlic and onion)
Different textureWhat changes
- Best for
- spooning over rice, eggs and tofu, dumplings, cold noodles, topping grilled meat and vegetables
Taberu rayu means eating chilli oil, and it is loaded with fried garlic, fried onion, sesame seeds and sometimes dried shrimp, which makes it crunchy, deeply savoury and much more assertive than plain rayu. As a topping it is arguably better. In a dipping sauce the solids sink to the bottom of the dish and the garlic dominates the soy and vinegar, so if a recipe wants clear rayu, tip the jar and take the oil off the top.
What is Rayu?
Rayu is Japanese chilli oil, also written la-yu or layu, made by pouring hot sesame and neutral oil over chilli powder with garlic and ginger. Its job is aroma and a gentle background warmth rather than real heat, and it is much milder and far more sesame-scented than Chinese or Sichuan chilli oil.
Cooking tips
- Take the oil off the heat before the chilli goes in. Around 250 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit is right; visibly smoking oil scorches the chilli powder in seconds and gives you a brown, bitter oil rather than a clear red aromatic one. This is the mistake that ruins most first attempts.
- Rayu is a finishing oil, not a cooking oil. The toasted sesame in it breaks down and turns bitter over heat, so drizzle it on at the end rather than frying in it, and if a recipe has you cooking with chilli oil it probably means the Chinese kind.
- Use half the amount if you are substituting Chinese or Sichuan chilli oil, and check the label for Sichuan pepper or huajiao. The numbing tingle is pleasant in dan dan noodles and jarring in a gyoza sauce, and it is the difference nobody warns you about.
- The standard gyoza dipping sauce is roughly two parts soy sauce to one part rice vinegar with a few drops of rayu, so you are usually adding a quarter teaspoon rather than a tablespoon. At that volume almost any of these substitutes works, and the aroma matters far more than the heat.
- Homemade rayu separates and the chilli settles, so shake or stir it before each use, and store it in the fridge if you infused fresh garlic or ginger into it. Fresh aromatics in oil are perishable, so use a garlic-infused batch within a week rather than leaving it on the counter.
Frequently asked questions
Can I just leave it out?
Is rayu the same as Chinese chilli oil?
What is taberu rayu and can I use it instead?
How hot is rayu?
Which chilli should I use to make it at home?
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