Squab substitute
Quail
Use 2 quail for every squab
Two quail stand in for one squab and are the closest thing most butchers carry, though they are leaner and much less rich, so baste them and cook them fast. A duck breast is the best flavor match of anything in a supermarket, since squab tastes far more like duck than like chicken, and one breast replaces one squab if you are serving sliced meat rather than a whole bird. For Moroccan pastilla or a Cantonese braise where the meat is shredded or sauced, boneless chicken thighs at the same weight do the job honestly and cheaply. The one thing you cannot carry across is doneness: squab is served pink, and chicken and Cornish hen must be cooked all the way through.
Other squab substitutes
Ranked, with the exact amount to use
Substitutes for Squab with ratios
2Duck breast
Close matchWhat changes
- Best for
- plated main courses with sauce, salads, anywhere squab breast is sliced and fanned, dishes with fruit or wine sauces
The closest flavor of anything you can buy easily. Squab and duck share that dark, faintly iron, faintly livery richness, and they share the crucial habit of being best cooked to medium rare, so the technique and the sauce both transfer directly. Duck is fattier and more assertive, with a thick fat cap that squab does not have, so the dish comes out richer and slightly more gamey. The obvious limitation is presentation: this is a boneless breast, not a small whole bird, so a recipe built around serving a squab on the plate needs rethinking as sliced breast.
3Cornish hen or poussin
Taste and texture differWhat changes
- Best for
- roasting whole, stuffed and trussed presentations, pastilla, grilling under a brick, dinner-party plating
The best answer if what the recipe needs is a small whole bird on each plate. The size, the shape and the cooking method all match. What does not match is the meat: Cornish hen is pale, mild chicken, so a dish designed around squab's dark richness tastes noticeably lighter and plainer, and it must be cooked through to 165F rather than served pink, which means it will never have that rosy breast. Two things narrow the gap: roast it in duck fat or butter, and put a little chicken liver or a spoonful of liver pate into the stuffing or the sauce, which restores much of the depth people associate with squab.
4Boneless chicken thighs
Taste and texture differWhat changes
- Best for
- pastilla and bastilla, Cantonese braised pigeon dishes, pies and shredded fillings, stews, rice dishes
In any recipe where the bird is shredded, sauced or wrapped in pastry, this is the sensible and honest choice, and in Morocco chicken pastilla is a standard dish in its own right rather than a compromise. Thigh meat is closer to squab than breast is, since it is darker, fattier and more forgiving, but it is still much milder and softer, and it must be cooked through. Braise it in the same spices and it will taste excellent, just less deep. A tablespoon of chopped chicken liver or a little extra saffron and cinnamon in a pastilla goes a long way toward the richness squab would have brought.
5Wood pigeon or older pigeon
Taste and texture differWhat changes
- Best for
- braises, pies, salads with seared breast, game dishes, stews
It is literally the same bird, which is why the names get confused, but it is a different ingredient in the kitchen. A wild pigeon has flown, so its legs are sinewy and its flavor is strongly gamey and much more livery than squab. Roast one whole as you would a squab and you will get tough legs. Instead, take the breasts off and sear them fast to rare, and braise the legs and carcass separately for an hour or more. Where squab is delicate and refined, pigeon is robust and best in a pie or a red-wine braise.
6Duck legs or a duck leg confit, shredded
Different textureWhat changes
- Best for
- pastilla, pies, ravioli and dumpling fillings, rice dishes, shredded braises
For a filling rather than a plated bird, this is better than chicken thigh and cheaper than squab. Confit or slowly braised duck leg gives you dark, rich, deeply savory shredded meat that lands very near squab in flavor, and the fat it carries makes a pastilla taste luxurious. It is more strongly flavored and stringier than squab, and if it is confit it is already salty, so cut the salt in the rest of the recipe and taste before seasoning.
What is Squab?
Squab is Squab is a young domestic pigeon, about four weeks old and never flown, so unlike wild pigeon it is entirely tender dark meat with a fine grain and a mild, faintly livery richness, and it is traditionally cooked only to pink like duck rather than through like chicken.
Cooking tips
- Squab is one of the few birds served pink, and that is the single most important thing to carry into any substitution. Squab and duck are safely cooked to a rosy 130F to 140F in the breast and are dry and liverish beyond that. Chicken, Cornish hen and quail are different: poultry other than duck and squab should be cooked through, so if you substitute a Cornish hen you must accept fully cooked white meat rather than trying to serve it pink.
- Small birds live or die on high heat and short time. Roast squab or quail at 450F for twelve to eighteen minutes, or sear the breast in a pan and finish it in the oven, and then rest it for a full five to ten minutes, which is proportionally longer than you would rest a steak because so much of the mass is bone.
- Do not throw away the carcasses. Four squab or quail carcasses browned hard and simmered for forty-five minutes with a shallot and a splash of wine make the sauce that these dishes are built around, and the same works with the trimmings from duck breasts. This is where much of squab's famous depth actually shows up on the plate.
- In Cantonese crispy pigeon the technique is doing more than the bird: the point is blanching, then a soy and spice marinade, then air-drying the skin uncovered in the fridge for several hours, then a hot fry or roast. A Cornish hen or quail put through the same process will come out excellent, so if you cannot get squab, keep the method and change the bird.
- For pastilla, choose by moisture rather than by prestige. The filling wants meat that has been braised until it shreds and then reduced with its own spiced liquid, so chicken thigh or shredded duck leg both work better than roasted breast of anything. Add the cinnamon, saffron, ginger and toasted almonds at full strength, since they carry the dish.
Frequently asked questions
Is squab the same as pigeon?
Can I use chicken instead of squab?
Can I serve chicken pink the way squab is served?
What does squab taste like, so I know what I am matching?
Can I just leave the squab out?
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