Botija Olives substitute
Kalamata olives
Use the same amount by weight, pitted; rinse for 30 seconds and pat dry as the botija olives you are replacing
In Peruvian cooking a botija olive is doing three jobs at once: salt, deep fermented savouriness, and a purple-black colour that turns an olive sauce grey-violet. Kalamata olives are the best swap at 1:1 by weight, rinsed briefly to knock back their vinegar. Beldi or oil-cured black olives at about three quarters the weight are the closest match for botija's soft, wrinkled intensity. Canned California black olives look right but taste of almost nothing, so use them only as a last resort and add salt and a spoonful of kalamata brine.
Other botija olives substitutes
Ranked, with the exact amount to use
Substitutes for Botija Olives with ratios
2Beldi, Moroccan dry-cured or oil-cured black olives
Different tasteWhat changes
- Best for
- olive sauce and olive pastes, stuffed potato dishes, anywhere botija is the dominant flavour
These are more bitter and leathery than botija, with a slightly smoky, dried-fruit intensity, and they are much saltier per olive, which is why you use less. The sauce comes out darker and a touch drier tasting, so add an extra tablespoon of oil or a spoonful of the pasta cooking water. Taste before salting anything else in the dish.
3Alfonso, Gaeta or other soft brine-cured purple olives
Close matchWhat changes
- Best for
- escabeche, salads and cold platters, olive sauce for someone who dislikes strong olives
Softer and fruitier than kalamata, with less vinegar bite and less salt than a botija. The dish will taste gentler and rounder, so it needs a pinch of salt added separately, which botija would have supplied on its own. Colour is a good purple-brown and closer to botija than kalamata's red-purple.
4Nicoise or Taggiasca olives
Different tasteWhat changes
- Best for
- escabeche de pollo, rice dishes, salads, olive garnish rather than olive sauce
Much milder and less salty than botija, so the fermented funk that makes a Peruvian olive sauce distinctive is largely absent and the dish tastes politely Mediterranean instead. They are also fiddly to pit for the volume an olive sauce needs. Best where the olives are visible pieces, not blended.
5Canned California black ripe olives plus salt and kalamata brine
Different tasteWhat changes
- Best for
- when the supermarket has nothing else, dishes where the olive is decoration, cooking for people who dislike strong olives
There is no getting around it: these taste faintly of tin and salt water and nothing like a botija. An olive sauce made from them is greyish, sweetish and flat. The salt and borrowed brine help, and a teaspoon of anchovy paste or half a teaspoon of capers per half cup adds back some of the savoury depth. If you have any other option on this list, take it.
6Black olive paste or tapenade
Taste and texture differWhat changes
- Best for
- salsa de aceitunas, quick pasta sauces, spreads and dips
Read the label first, because most tapenade already contains capers, anchovy, garlic and often lemon, all of which will show up in your sauce. That is fine for tallarines but wrong for a delicate causa. Start with less than you think and do not add salt until the end, since these pastes are usually very salty.
What is Botija Olives?
Botija Olives is Botija olives, sold in Peru as aceituna de botija or aceituna botija, are soft, wrinkled, purple-black olives from the Tacna and Ica valleys that are cured slowly in salt brine rather than treated with lye, which leaves them intensely salty, fruity and slightly winey.
Cooking tips
- Botija olives are sold soft and wet, often still with pits, and they bruise into a paste easily. Squash each one flat with the side of a knife and the pit slides out in one motion, which is far faster than trying to cut around it for the cup or more that an olive sauce needs.
- Taste your olives before you salt anything else. Botija and its closer stand-ins are salty enough to season a whole pasta sauce on their own, and the most common failure in salsa de aceitunas is a cook who salts the base first and only then adds the olives.
- For salsa de aceitunas, blend the olives with a little evaporated milk or cream and a splash of oil rather than water. The fat carries the fermented flavour and stops the sauce from tasting harsh, and it also softens the grey-purple colour into something more appetising.
- Botija brine is worth keeping. A tablespoon of it does more for a rice dish or an escabeche than another two olives would. The same trick works with the brine from a jar of kalamatas when you are substituting.
- If you are jarring or pickling olives yourself rather than cooking with them, do not adjust the salt or acid in a tested recipe. Olive curing is a preserving process where the brine strength is doing the safety work, and the National Center for Home Food Preservation guidance is the right reference. Substituting olive varieties in a cooked dish is completely safe; substituting brine strength in a preserve is not.
Frequently asked questions
Can I just use regular canned black olives instead of botija?
Can I just leave the olives out?
What is the difference between botija olives and kalamata olives?
Is botija olive paste the same as the whole olives?
Where can I buy botija olives outside Peru?
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