Requeson substitutes

Effectively the same cheese under a different name: the same whey-based, mild, milky-sweet, faintly grainy curd. The only real difference is that commercial ricotta is often wetter and sometimes slightly saltier, so an undrained ricotta filling can weep and make a tlacoyo or enchilada soggy.

Best for

fillings for tlacoyos, enchiladas and chiles rellenos, spreading on toast with honey, pasta and lasagna fillings, sweet desserts

Drain in a fine sieve for 20 to 30 minutes if it looks wet. Choose whole-milk over part-skim, which is chalkier and less creamy.

Same fresh-dairy background and it is in every supermarket, but it is distinctly tangier and much saltier than requeson, and the curds are bigger and squeakier. A filling made with it straight from the tub tastes sharp and salty next to the gentle milkiness of requeson.

Best for

savory fillings, baked dishes, quick weeknight substitution, higher-protein versions of requeson dishes

Rinse briefly under cold water to wash off the salty dressing, drain well, then mash with a fork or pulse two or three times in a food processor to break the curds down. Do not over-blend or it turns to liquid.

Fresh, mild, unsalted or barely salted, and very close to requeson in flavor. The difference is dryness: these are pressed, so they are crumbly and stiff where requeson is loose and spoonable, and a filling made with them can taste pasty rather than creamy.

Best for

fillings that need to hold their shape, spreads, sweet dishes with honey or fruit, cheese-and-herb mixtures

Loosen with 1 to 2 tablespoons of milk or cream per cup, added a spoonful at a time until it drops from a spoon the way requeson does.

The obvious pick because it sits next to requeson at the store, but it does a different job. Queso fresco is pressed, salted and firm, so it crumbles and stays in distinct pieces instead of going soft and creamy. Sprinkled over enchiladas it is excellent; used as a stuffing it stays chalky and salty rather than melting into a smooth filling.

Best for

topping enchiladas, sopes and beans, salads, garnishing soups, dishes where the cheese should stay in pieces

Cut the added salt in the recipe. To make it behave more like requeson, mash it with a splash of cream or a spoonful of sour cream until it loosens.

It gives you the right creamy, spoonable body and it is in most fridges, but it is clearly more tart than requeson, so a sweet requeson dish made with yogurt tastes like a yogurt dessert instead. In a savory filling with garlic and herbs the tang is much less noticeable.

Best for

savory spreads and dips, uncooked fillings, quick substitution, lower-fat versions

Strain in a cheesecloth-lined sieve for at least an hour so it stops weeping. Avoid it in anything baked for a long time, where it can split and go watery.

Blend silken tofu with 2 teaspoons lemon juice, ½ teaspoon salt and a pinch of sugar per cup. The texture is startlingly close to requeson, smooth with a slight grain, but there is no dairy sweetness underneath, so it tastes clean rather than milky and needs more seasoning than you expect.

Best for

dairy-free fillings, vegan enchiladas and tlacoyos, savory spreads, baked dishes

Press firm silken tofu lightly before blending or the mixture will be too loose. Taste and add salt in stages, since the flat starting point makes under-seasoning very easy.